From the outside, you might expect Sauté to be just another Upper Canton corner bar, albeit one with a sparkling new building and a swankier name than most. Throw aside any preconceptions— Sauté delivers to the neighborhood an American brasserie with an ambitious menu, a slick, beautiful dining room and a friendly bar up front. The dining room sports an elegant decor done with a sophisticated mid-century élan. The cozy banquettes and sleek shades overhead suggest a Hollywood supper club. The Lite Fare menu lists intriguing spins on bar standards such as hickory-smoked chicken wings, Thai shrimp, tuna tartare, pan-roasted mussels and pulled duckling nachos. There are the obligatory grilled pizzas, too. But the dinner menu is where the kitchen really shines, with tempting plates like achiote-crusted ahi tuna, seafood bouillabaisse, slow-roasted spiced pork loin, pan-roasted chicken and “the ultimate meatloaf” served with pomme puree, green bean casserole and lingonberries. Open for lunch and dinner. 2844 Hudson St., 410-327-2883
