We’ve always been fans of this space that once housed the popular Ruby Lounge, and were thrilled that it got a major redo several years ago when Saffron opened in the spot. The restaurant closed a few months back for an overhaul, and has now reopened with chef Edward Kim presiding over the kitchen. That’s big news for fans of his last local outpost, the popular (and late, lamented) Soigné. Inside, not much has changed; the interiors (originally done by Rita St. Clair Associates) still boast perfect lighting levels and persimmon-colored walls (though we miss the flying carpets overhead and the Shiva statue). But Kim has completely redone Saffron’s menu to reflect his pan-cultural approach to contemporary American food. Start with a hoisin duck spring roll or grilled stuffed squid. Then try the seared tenderloin of ahi tuna in miso marinade with pad Thai and cucumber salad or the grilled pork loin cured in dark rum and sugar with Tuscan-style home fries with garlic sausage, cannilini and apples. 802 N. Charles St., 410-528-1616 —Brian Michael Lawrence
