My Tha

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When Brad and Pui Wales reopened My Thai last year (relocated to Central Avenue from Mount Vernon) they built a stainless steel counter and grill in the center of the restaurant designed to proffer authentic Thai street food. Fifteen diners could sit around the bar and watch chefs—including Pui’s son Jirat Suphrom-In—crank out sautéed silkworms, beef tongue and pig brains seared on a hot grill, grasshoppers on a bed of charcoal.

Somehow, the idea didn’t catch on—news may not have reached Baltimore’s edgier diners; there’s also the issue of sourcing. (Raw silkworms aren’t always available.) So the Wales are instead using the space to fill a niche local diners seem to be clamoring for: a noodle bar. Slithery rice and egg noodles are layered in slow simmered aromatic broth (the duck base begins with 18 fowl) layered with dark green yu choy leaves, pepper flakes, fresh basil and bean sprouts. Flavors include duck, pork, chicken and beef, as well as Thai classic sweet and sour Tom Yum soup, made with shrimp and fish sauce. Wales hasn’t given up on the street food concept and has instituted “Bizarre Food Night” on Tuesdays. Bring on the charred grasshoppers. 1300 Bank St., 410-327-0023, http://www.mythaibaltimore.com

—Martha Thomas

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