Taking apart a whole animal, says chef and butcher George Marsh, “is a beautiful thing.” Even so, plenty of today’s carnivores “are used to buying a piece of meat that doesn’t look like an animal, sitting on a piece of Styrofoam.” Parts & Labor, which Marsh oversees as part of Spike Gjerde’s restaurant group, is dedicated to whole animal butchery in all its gory glory.
Named in homage to the space it occupies, once a Remington tire shop, Parts & Labor is a butcher shop by day—receiving and carving up whole animals for the Woodberry restaurants and to sell to the public. At 5 o’clock, the place opens up for drinks and dinner. “Our vision is someplace lively and sociable, kind of like a beer hall,” says Marsh.
The former repair shop is a deceptively grand space, with an eggplant-stained concrete floor and a wood bar (built from reclaimed barn beams by local builder Luke Steckel) sporting 22 taps for local suds. The 84-seat dining space is a mix of communal seating and smaller tables, where diners can graze on snacks or go for the whole hog, so to speak. “People can come every day without breaking the bank.” 2600 N. Howard St., 443-873-8887, http://www.partsandlaborbutchery.com