If you haven’t driven through Catonsville recently, the new Catonsville Gourmet is definitely a good reason to stop. Housed in what was once a hardware store, this new bistro-style restaurant has a fresh feel— think beach cottage-meets-Restoration Hardware. Odds are, you’ll have to wait for a table, but it’s worth it. There are lots of fresh fish entreés on the menu, along with steamed shrimp, clams and mussels. But we were more intrigued with some of the other offerings: a bookmaker salad, Kentucky ‘hot brown,’ grilled shrimp Cobb salad, fish’n’chips and lobster mac’n’cheese. We love the heartier fare, too, such as the meatloaf and the spaghetti and meatballs. For dessert? How can you pass up a place that offers authentic Smith Island cake? The answer: you can’t. In the rear, there’s a market area with cases packed with fresh seafoods, meats and prepared foods to take home. Open daily for lunch and dinner.  829 Frederick Road, Catonsville, 410-788-0005

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