Now open in the space long occupied by Café Troia is Taste Mediterranean Grille in Towson. The rooms have been been given a thorough updating with beige tile floors, warm terra cotta-toned walls and a relocated bar area. There’s also a cozy wine room and an upstairs loft space, both for private dining. In the kitchen is chef/owner Luigi Palumbo, who hails from Bacoli, Naples, and his menu is a classic Italian one, influenced by the Mediterranean coast. That means that seafood is incorporated into many of the items, with starters like the fish souffle in fresh onion-herb sauce, pastas like paccheri with monkfish ragout and lemon-flavored tagliatelle with clams, and main courses like the salt-encrusted whole fish. There’s plenty for meat eaters, too, such as beef carpaccio, steaks, an Amish lamb rack and veal chops. A nice touch: the tasting menus— choose five courses for $40 per person, six courses for $50 or eight courses for $70. Open for lunch and dinner. 28 Allegheny Ave., 410-830-4091
