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French dining returns to 39th Street. The former Jeannier’s— pink, mauve and grandmotherly— has given way to Brasserie Tatin. The space has been transformed into a sleek lounge and bar up front— with long sinuous banquettes, mod lounge chairs and retro space-age lighting fixtures— and a large, bustling contemporary dining room beyond. Romantic lighting and cozy tables are a backdrop for a classical French brasserie menu that includes nightly specials like coq au vin, cassoulet and charcuteries. The breads are exquisite. Already a favorite with neighborhood folks, the place may just become the watering hole of choice for the old Polo Grill set. Open seven days for dinner; lunch is served Monday through Friday; and brunch on Sunday. Free parking. (105 W. 39th St., 443-278-9110)

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