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There are similarities between the new Birroteca in Bel Air and the original on Clipper Road in Baltimore. The youthful wait staff wear plaid shirts and seem genuinely invested in your happiness. Plates and cutlery are
replaced between courses. And the Duck Duck Goose Pizza, a Birroteca staple, comes perched on a pizza stand, the glistening goose egg yolk bright yellow as ever.

But Birroteca in the ‘burbs, a dozen miles north of the beltway, lives in a squat, nondescript building that resembles a fast food joint. That doesn’t mean the new spot won’t be a success. Owner Robbin Haas has a track record when it comes to picking locations—in Baltimore he turned two previously troubled spots into busy, vibrant neighborhood hangouts (Nickel Taphouse is the second). He hopes to do the same for this former Bill Bateman’s.

“The economic climate in Harford County is great,” says Haas. “There are a lot of restaurants in [the area], but not a lot of restaurants like us.”

1226 Belair Road, Bel Air, 443-981-3141, bmorebirroteca.com

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