Quaker settlers and travelers have dined and lodged within its walls. Its heritage as a fine-dining destination
has attracted guests from all corners of Maryland. When the COVID-19 pandemic shuttered this beloved Baltimore County attraction, the fate of the property and its purpose was unknown.
In July, The Milton Inn reopened for service under the leadership of the famed Foreman Wolf restaurateurs: Tony Foreman and Chef Cindy Wolf, along with Executive Chef Chris Scanga. Together, the ownership trio has reimagined this Sparks Glencoe property with a decidedly French countryside hunting lodge feel.
This concept reflects Foreman and Wolf’s love for French culture and cuisine and Scanga’s passion for classic French cooking, which he perfected as executive chef of Petit Louis Bistro in Roland Park. “It was a chance for us to show respect for the legacy of this place,” Foreman says of the decision that he, Wolf and Scanga made to become co-owners and partners of The Milton Inn.
Becoming a caretaker for this centuries-old landmark resonates with Scanga, who grew up in Baltimore County and lives in Cockeysville.
Foreman says that upon purchasing The Milton Inn, the work to execute the vision for the restaurant was a “voyage of discovery. One of the dining rooms had a 120-year-old white heart pine floor that had been covered over. We came across so many other items like this and places where we had to reutilize materials to re-create history,” he says. “Cindy is very driven by her heart, and her affection for this property was so genuine.”
“Ever since I was a kid, I dreamed that my restaurant would be in a very old house with lots of fireplaces, a lot of property to plant a garden and be located in the countryside,” Chef Wolf says. “The first time I had dinner at the inn was 30 years ago. At the time, the man I was seeing was a waiter at the inn. We had moved up here from Charleston, South Carolina.
“That evening, I met John Thillman—the owner at the time—and remember standing in the entrance hall with a fire going in the hall behind us, and I remember thinking what a special place I was standing in. And it only got better as he sat me for dinner back in the hearth room. I fell in love with the property at that moment.”
Inside The Milton Inn, guests will find several distinct dining spaces, plus an outdoor patio, elegantly appointed thanks to the work of Katie DeStefano of Katie DeStefano Design. Luxurious touches of leather, marble and velvet enhance the rustic character of these dining spaces with hunting trophies acknowledging that guests are dining in Baltimore County hunt country.
“We trusted Katie’s eye and how important it was to be honest to the place and honest to the concept,” Foreman says.
The rustic yet elegant atmosphere serves as the ideal setting for the extraordinary cuisine and impeccable cellar. Reiterating the French countryside hunting lodge aesthetic, dishes on the menu showcase game and game birds in a French country cooking style that pays homage to the culinary traditions associated with the south and southwest of France—the Basque Country, Provence and Bordeaux.
“We work with close to 25 farms and watermen all around the area, from Maryland and Pennsylvania to Delaware and Virginia,” Foreman says.
Sustainability and Service
The Milton Inn supports sustainable practices on all levels of food production, from procurement to production. “In French cooking, it’s detail orientation, honest flavor, elegance of presentation, respect for nature and a pursuit of balance,” he adds.
The Chevreuil Grillé is a carefully prepared grilled venison rack chop accented with chanterelles, sour cherries and a Bordelaise sauce. Roasted guinea fowl served with a pommes purée and roasted carrots makes up the rich Pintade Rôti.
A Cuisse de Canard Confit comprises a hearty duck leg confit paired with Mirabelle and Methley plums and baby carrots.
Cooking with the seasons will carry forward in The Milton Inn’s menu approach. “If we have beautiful pumpkins in the fall, we could prepare a pumpkin velouté or a puree of Blue Hubbard squash accompanying roasted pheasant,” Foreman says.
Desserts are also treats for all the senses. The Milton Inn’s crème brûlée is a heavenly creation. With hints of influence from the Spanish Catalonian classic Crema Catalana, this creamy dessert dances on your tongue with the flavors of cinnamon, candied orange zest and vanilla complemented by the caramelized sugar crust.
The Milton Inn’s wine cellar is distinctively French in its repertoire. White wines from the Loire Valley, Alsace and southern and western French regions pair off extraordinary rosés such as the 2020 Pays d’Oc, Domaine la Ferrandiere. A bevy of red beauties anchor the wine menu with representatives such as a 2018 Dom Aphillanthes “Plan de Dieu” from the Côtes du Rhône Villages and Burgundy Premier Cru selections. And special celebrations call for a spectacular Champagne worthy of popping the cork.
“I hope people will feel the love and respect the changes we have made
to the interior,” Chef Wolf says. “The Milton Inn should feel like a wonderful, peaceful, elegant place to share a meal with family and friends.”
Make Your Reservation …
The Milton Inn
14833 York Road, Sparks Glencoe
Open Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m., and Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m.