Town Talk
Owners Roseann and Robert Glick have taken their first foray into the restaurant industry, opening the very comfortable, eat-and-stay-a-while Village Square Café this past December. When Style asked why they decided to open at this time of economic decline, Roseanne laughed and said, “We didn’t plan it that way! It’s been in the works for a year and a half.”
The Glicks knew there was a void in the Cross Keys market since the closing of the Cross Keys Market and Deli and The Roost over a decade ago, and they wanted to re-offer the concept of dining using a quick-serve model. But make no mistake. Quick-serve is not fast food. The Mt. Washington Pizza (made with artichokes, kalamata olives, fontina and grilled season vegetables) is about as far from a Big Mac as you can get. And a Bacon Double Cheeseburger can’t touch the gourmet Roland Park Omelet (with Hickory smoked bacon, Vermont cheddar cheese and a wonderful helping of fresh, home-grown spinach). So far, the customers favorites tend to be “The Big Breakfast,” with eggs, bacon and pancakes—all home-made; the Turkey Club made with house-roasted, hand-carved turkey, served on any kind of bread, but suggested on toasted sourdough; the Garden Sandwich, with grilled vegetables, portabello mushrooms, peppers and goat cheese on foccacia; or the burger (using local Fell’s Point meats!)... all made with hand-cut French fries that absolutely nobody can resist (sorry, hips!). And if you have room for some exquisite dessert (and who doesn’t?!), the brownies are a yummy must-digest.
There is a variety of seating options at the Village Square Cafe: sit at the counter and chat with the staff or sit at the window counter, looking out at the plaza of the Village Square (looking directly across at Child’s Play); grab a seat at the farm house table, destined for large groups or individuals who would like to get to know other people; nab a spot on the sofas and garden benches (cosy up with a newspaper and a cappuccino); and the Village Square Café also has marble table tops that seat two or four along a banquette. The walls were faux painted by local artist, Kelly; and a mural, inspired by a Jean Paul Gaultier skirt, was painted on the back wall by Hungarian born artist, Balage, who now resides in Baltimore. “My mother-in-law, who owned Ruth Shaw (it was recently sold to Ray Mitchner last year), had met Balage and he was proposing various mural scheme on the back wall, and she introduced him to this skirt that had great color and movement and said, ‘I envision something like this on the back wall.’”
The food and the interior both get high praise for excellence, but the heart of this business is the reintroduction of community. Says Glick, “Half of our customers come in to tell their tales and bemoan the loss of the Cross Keys Market and Deli and The Roost .... both important community gathering spots in northwest Baltimore. It’s exciting to see people back at Cross Keys that we haven’t seen in over 10 years—and to hear doctors and shop owners tell us the same thing. A community gathering spot is what we strive to be.”
Roseann Glick’s choice: The Veggie: stuffed with portabello mushrooms, red and yellow peppers, seasonal vegetables and goat cheese.
Robert Glick’s choice: The Rueben: a classic rueben served with corned beef, sauerkraut, Russian dressing, and grilled on Rye bread.
The Mother-in-Law’s choice: The thin crust pizza (a special pizza is served each day—or order off the menu).
Style magazine’s choice: Challah Bread French Toast: Two giants slices of French toast, served with whipped butter & Vermont maple syrup.
Village Square Café
66 Village Square in Cross Keys
410-433-CAFE (2233)
villagesquarecafe.com
Hours:
Mon-Fri:
7:30 a.m. - 4 p.m.
Sat-Sun
8 a.m. - 4 p.m.
Click for Directions and Map to Village Square Café at Cross Keys.
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