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MARCH/APRIL 2006
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Fake Frites

From Patricia Wells’ “At Home in Provence.” If the butter in the recipe above alarms you, try this leaner version of “fries.” Instead of being fried, these potatoes are steamed, then baked, leaving them moist inside and crispy outside. Excellent with mussels.

2 pounds baking potatoes, such as russets, peeled
(optional) and cut into thick fries, 3/4 inch by 3 inches
2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
salt to taste

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Bring 1 quart of water to a simmer in the bottom of a steamer. Place the potatoes on the steaming rack, and place rack in the steamer. Cover and steam just until a knife inserted in a potato comes away easily, 10 to 12 minutes. (Potatoes should not be cooked through, or they will tend to fall apart.) Transfer the steamed potatoes to a bowl and drizzle with oil. Carefully toss to coat evenly with oil. (The potatoes can be prepared to this point several hours in advance. Set aside at room temperature.)

With a large slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes in a single layer to a non-stick baking sheet. Discard any excess oil or liquid. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake, turning potatoes to brown evenly, until they are crisp and a deep golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, season generously with salt, and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish.


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