Street vendors in Charleston, S.C., used to call out, “Shecrabs for sale!” The crabmeat from females is thought to be sweeter, and, also, cooks would use the roe from female crabs to thicken this cream-based soup. Traditionally, it was finished with a good sherry and a little cayenne and nutmeg.

For roux:
2 ounces butter
2 ounces flour
For soup:
2 Spanish onions, small dice
2 ounces butter
3 cups crab stock
1 quart heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1/6 teaspoon nutmeg
3/4 cup tomato puree
3 ounces Manzanilla sherry
salt to taste
For garnish:
8 ounces jumbo lump crab

To make roux, melt 2 ounces of butter on low heat and whisk in 2 ounces of flour. Toss around in pan for 3 minutes. Let cool.

In a 6-quart pot, sauté the onions in 2 ounces of butter until soft. Add crab stock and bring to a boil. Whisk in the roux, stirring vigorously to incorporate mixture for 3 minutes. Stir in heavy cream, cayenne, Tabasco, nutmeg and tomato puree. Cook on low heat, stirring frequently, for 45 minutes.

Strain soup mixture through a fine sieve. Add Manzanilla sherry and taste for seasoning. When ready to serve, place 1 ounce of the crabmeat in individual bowls, and ladle in hot soup. Serve immediately. Serves 8.