New on the scene in Federal Hill is Junior’s Wine Bar, located in an expanded version of the space that formerly housed the popular bistro Vespa. The talented chef, Mike Russell, is also a carry-over from the Vespa days, but the new menu he’s formulated is more diverse. Billed as “wine country cuisine,” it translates as seasonal, rustic American fare with international overtones. Look for dishes such as roasted Cornish hen with spinach and fried polenta, pork shank with sweet potato and carrot mash, and lobster ravioli in roasted red pepper tomato sauce. Lite fare includes five-spice spring rolls and personal pizzas with toppings such as braised duck and shrimp. All entrees go for under $20. Wines are overseen by Scott “Scooter” Holt (formerly of Corks) and are categorized as Old World and New World reds and whites— and are priced moderately. The interiors are warm and handsome, with an Arts & Crafts feel and a distinctive bar crafted of exotic African Bubinga wood. Choose from two dining rooms, two bar areas, a lounge and a private dining room. 1117 S. Charles St., 410-727-1212.
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MARCH/APRIL 2008
Raising the Bar
Junior’s Wine Bar
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